Daily Archives: December 5, 2012

SURFER PROFILE: SHANE DORIAN

Shane DorianOctober 2012

Shane Dorian
October 2012

SURFER PROFILE: SHANE DORIAN-FREE SURFER

Sponsors: Billabong, Dragon, Freestyle, Reef, OAM

Years pro: 16

Stance: Regular

Favorite spot: Pipe(HAW), Cloudbreak (FIJI)

2006 – Billabong XXL Monster Tube Award – Sep 11, 2005, Teahupo’o
2005 – Billabong XXL Surfline/Jay Moriarity Best Overall Performance Award
2000 – 4th overall on WCT
2000 (1) – Billabong Pro (Fra/Spn)
1999 (1) – Rip Curl Pro (Aus)
1998 (2) – Rip Curl World Cup (WQS-Haw), Billabong Challenge (Specialty-Aus)
1996 (1) – O’Neill Surf Challenge (WQS-Fra)
1994 (1) – Nescau Surf Energy (WQS-Brz)

Shane Dorian was brought up on the Big Island of Hawaii, he splices  courage with new era flair and the will to win.  His attack revolves around his centered style, on rai lprecision and futuristic maneuvers.  Dorian consistently puts his surfboard in places around and above the lip line where few have gone before.  Then there are his ‘heart in mouth” feats at bone crushing breaks like Backdoor, Pipe and Waimea are  world renowned.  His large wave poweress was further established when he got second at the 2001 Eddie event at Waimea in Hawaii and a third placing in 2004.

LIGHTS, CAMERA, ACTION

I have five all time movies that I can watch over and over again like it was the first time and “In Gods Hands” takes spot #1.  Shane Dorian portrays a surfer in search of the big waves and how one prepares mentally and physically to surf them.  And then there is the drama involved with a cast of characters that also bring an understanding  to a surfers mindset of a big wave surfer.    He also was featured in the Billabong Odyssey film in 2003 and a countless amount of other appearances stretching back from Taylor Steel’s “Momentum” up t o more recent Billabong’s releases.  Since then he has decided to give up the World Champion Tour (WCT) to focus on big wave surfing and filming.

WHAT MADE THE HAWAIIAN THROW IT ALL IN?

It was during a WQS event in Portugal that changed the way Shane Dorian perceived his beloved sport of surfing.  He lost his heat in a one foot dribble (ankle high surf) that day.  As he walked up the beach he realized that he didn’t care, and as he looked around no one else seemed to either.  Shortly after he jumped on his laptop and checked an email from a friend who was in Tahiti at the time. His friend sent him photos of fifteen foot glassy waves of Teahupo’o .  It was that evening that he threw in the towel and made his decision to leave the ASP tour.  He didn’t want to miss a perfect day of waves again.  Surfing dribble in Portugal that no one cared, let alone him was the straw that broke the camel’s back.   Since that miserable day in Portugal, Dorian’s profile as a big wave rider is fast receding his renown on the WCT.

Charging some epic sessions throughout 2004 and 2005 at infamous locations around the globe, including Peahi and Teahupo’o resulted in his receiving the Billabong XXL Monster Tube award for a backside behemoth he rode to perfection at Teahupo’o in September of 2005.  Raising the bar yet again, 2006 saw Shane taking an epic swell at Fiji’s Cloudbreak in April before returning to Tahiti in July to defend his Monster Tube award.

Shane is one of several Billabong surfers to feature in Taylor Steele’s latest movie release, “Sipping Jetstreams.”  Venturing  to the outposts of Morocco, he again displayed his aptitude  for heavier waves, taking on grinding slabs that would make many others break down.

Dorian’s passion for riding unfathomable swells has placed him at the forefront of big wave riding.  What comes next is left in the hands of Mother Ocean, but whatever she can muster, it’s almost guaranteed that Shane Dorian will be in the thick of it!

HOME SWEET HOME

When he is not surfing you can find him at his home in  Holualoa on the Big Island, riding on a John Deere Tractor taking care of his orchard that consists of 110 fruit trees at an elevation of 4000′ above sea level with his wife Lisa.

See you at the beach!

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